Hello masa-friends,
On Saturday April 9th, I participated in a reception at the Brava Theater in the Mission for a screening of a beautiful documentary, Los Guardianes del Maíz. The reception was made up of several business that use maíz in their cooking, all contributing a dish made with heirloom, landrace masa. Dominica Rice from Bombera/Cosecha made taquitos. Val Cantu from Californios made tetelas. Rosa Martinez of Origen offered tlayudas. Francisco Camacho and Eduardo Antonio of Café de Olla brought tostadas straight from Oaxaca. There was mezcal donated from Lolo. Everyone was contributing beautiful, incredibly delicious food.
Although the brochure called me “Chef Emmanuel Galvan,” I think a more accurate description for me would be “Maíz Enthusiast/Tortillerx Emmanuel Galvan.” I am reluctant to participate in events like these, because 1) I feel like a total fraud in these types of environments 2) I don’t think that I can properly convey my intentions in a brief interaction with guests. Regardless, I came in with what I thought was an appropriate maíz based dish/beverage.
I made “Café de Tortilla Quemada.” A beverage, analogous to coffee, made from burnt tortillas and spices. A beverage most of us have never tasted, consumed all over southern Mexico and Guatemala. Incredibly simple. In its most basic form it is three ingredients. It is consumed for its medicinal and health qualities—cures gas, reduces intestinal cramps, whitens teeth, cures bad breath, and prevent indigestion. It’s the perfect beverage 😆.
While the Chefs presented dishes that were tested, delicious, and more commonly found in the Bay Area, I wanted to show another use. A use that is common among peasants, farmers, and indigenous people in southern Mexico. A drink that the guardians of maíz would likely drink on a daily basis. It is an incredibly humble beverage. Sometimes coffee beans are too expensive or unavailable. Tortillas and masa are abundant.
As a maíz enthusiast, I believe it is my job to not only assist in educating people on the varieties and uses of maíz/masa, but also show maíz in forms/shapes that are not highlighted in the US. The Chefs wowed the guests with their delicious food, while I was in my booth trying to convince people to try this “odd” drink. Some people heard me describe the beverage and walked away. But, the people that were intrigued and willing to listen, stayed. They tried the “coffee” and became amazed at how delicious a burnt tortilla could become.
This is an infusion made by gently simmering blackened, charred tortillas in a lightly spiced, piloncillo tea. The ash turns the liquid black, like a dark coffee. There is a subtle nuttiness reminisce of toasted barley and burnt popcorn. I added cinnamon, cardamom and stare anise for added depth to complement the nutty bitterness. It is truly delicious.
Café de Tortilla Quemada
(makes two 6 oz. portions)
Ingredients
1 Bolita tortilla (yellow or white varietals preferred)
14 oz water
1 tbsp piloncillo sugar (more to taste)
1/2 stick of cinnamon
1 star anise pod
2 cardamom pods
To Prepare
Heat a griddle or comal on medium-high heat. Make sure to use a griddle that is easy to clean or one that you don’t particularly care for. Turn on your fan or open a window. Once hot, place your tortilla on the griddle, flipping every minute or so, until blackened and heavily charred. Your tortillas will smoke and burn! You will ask yourself, “Am i doing this correctly?!?!” You are. This takes about 8-10 minutes.
Bring the water up to a boil. Add piloncillo sugar and stir to dissolve. Lower temperature to a simmer.
Add spices and your burnt tortilla, stir gently. Let simmer for 6 minutes. Turn heat off and let steep for 2 minutes. Do not let it boil or over-steep, as you will extract more bitterness than desired.
Using a spoon or tongs, remove the tortilla and spices. Strain through a coffee filter, and enjoy while hot. Add more piloncillo and/or dairy to suit your preference.
Pop-Up / Market Dates
TUES 4/12/22 - POP-UP Dinner, OAKLAND at Taco Oscar, Oakland, CA 94609 5:00pm - 9:00pm. This month’s Pop-Up at Tacos Oscar is all about Quesadillas. Some have cheese, some don’t. I was shocked when I ordered a quesadilla in Mexico City, only to realize it didn’t have cheese. Surprisingly, by definition, quesadillas don’t always have cheese. There will be masa and salsa too!!
THU 4/14/22 - San Francisco CUESA Mission Market 3:00pm-7:00pm. As always, we will have masa, tlacoyos, tetelas, tortillas, salsas, and more.
WED 4/20/22 - POP-UP Market, OAKLAND. Preorder for pickups at The Alice Collective 272 14th Street Oakland, 5:30-6:30 pm. Pre-Orders will go live on Friday 4/15 until Tuesday 4/19 12:00pm.
THU 4/21/22 - San Francisco CUESA Mission Market 3:00pm-7:00pm. You know the drill. Come say hi!!
SAT 4/30/22 - POP-UP Dinner, OAKLAND at The Lede 308 41st St, Oakland, CA 94609 5:00pm -Sold Out. Menu details announce soon! We will have salsas and masa for you to purchase as well.